Don't get Eibach ProKit springs.

Go with Bilsteins + Hypercoils. Here's a thread that should help: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339951

I would not replace the control arm bushings unless they have a problem. Especially not with any urethane or solid bushings.

You do not need to replace the control arms either.

I would also recommend leaving the sway bars alone. Do one mod at a time -- first the shocks/springs and then evaluate again.

 

I would not replace the control arm bushings unless they have a problem. Especially not with any urethane or solid bushings.

Why not?
Whats the downside to the polyurethane bushings, besides being a pita to install?

 

Really?

I figure it would be better to just refresh the whole system with this many miles on the car...

I will take a look at that theread later tonight. Thanks for responding.

 

Really?

I figure it would be better to just refresh the whole system with this many miles on the car...

The thing about the suspension is that you want to make measured changes. If you start changing everything at once you won't be able to determine which of your modifications created the situation that you are in.

For example you don't need to replace the sway bars. You may install the new shocks/springs and determine that the increased spring rates effectively remove the need to change the sway bars. Alternatively you may want to go with a stock spring rate and a stiffer sway bar to make a streetable yet flat-cornering car.

Best to do the following:
1 - determine the purpose of the car (e.g. street only, drag, road course, autox, etc)
2 - determine which mods correlate with your goals
3 - approach them in a deliberate fashion to enable evaluation of each set of modifications you perform.

HTH.
-Chris

 

Chris, what suspension mods would you recommend for a car aimed at street/drags ? Suspension is 100% stock except for HKS Drag coilovers.

 

I'm no drag racer, but I think you want a lot of weight transfer in drag racing, right? If so I'd go with some TRD (not "bigass") or Titan swaybars to complement your drag coilovers. That will allow the car to corner flatter without impacting your ability to launch.

YMMV.

Fair enough... that makes sense.

Mind throwing a little assistance my way then?

My car is my daily driver... but I also take it to the drag strip, and street race it occasionally.

My goals are first and foremost making sure that the car is in at least 100% stock handling form (right now the steering is a little sloppy imo), and then tighten it up slightly. I don't mind a mildly harsh ride...

I know for a fact my shocks are gone... so those need to be replaced first.

Should I just do the shocks and leave the springs alone at first?

Thanks for the help. I am a suspension noob.

I think the plan you just mention is what I'd do as well -- replace those shocks with some Bilsteins and see how they feel with the springs. Once you've determined how that feels we can talk again.

Why not?
Whats the downside to the polyurethane bushings, besides being a pita to install?

Noise from the suspension. Requirement to grease. Long-term they also fail quicker than rubber bushings from what I have read. YMMV. I personally wouldn't go that route unless you're building a car that is a dedicated racer.

Hope that helps!

 

Fair enough... that makes sense.

Mind throwing a little assistance my way then?

My car is my daily driver... but I also take it to the drag strip, and street race it occasionally.

My goals are first and foremost making sure that the car is in at least 100% stock handling form (right now the steering is a little sloppy imo), and then tighten it up slightly. I don't mind a mildly harsh ride...

I know for a fact my shocks are gone... so those need to be replaced first.

Should I just do the shocks and leave the springs alone at first?

Thanks for the help. I am a suspension noob.

 

they arnt damaged in a way that could compromise anything, but they are well worn after 100k miles and 13 years.

Could you elaborate on the issues with poly bushings, aside from the faster wear rate?

 

I have to agree with JDC... it is not that they are necessarily damaged, but bushing breakdown after time.

Regardless... I read the other linked thread about the Bilsteins and I am a little confused. What the hell are the sleeves for? You can't just install shocks and springs like normal with these?

 

I just did a little more digging on the poly bushing issue and learned that the bushings I had heard of failing early were not a function of the polyurethane material, but of the bushing design itself.

Here's some other information on bushing materials: http://www.cheperformance.com/Tech/Bushing_Material_Tech.pdf

Regardless... I read the other linked hread about the Bilsteins and I am a little confused. What the hell are the sleeves for? You can't just install shocks and springs like normal with these?

You can install just normal springs with the Bisteins. The sleeves allow for the adjusment of ride height. the sleeves are optional.

I pointed out the thread as it provides the information on the shocks and springs, which would provide a nice upgrade over stock with very high quality.

 

172,000 miles on stock suspension with a spring and shock change. Had to replace one ball joint other than that it rides great. If it ant broke dont fix it.

 

Whats your definition of 'broke'? To me broken means 'not operating at an objects original level of performance." Its no different than worn piston rings. A worn piston ring really isnt broken; in that it isnt causing something to cease function; however, is sure isnt performing like a new one.

 

Well take a ball joint, mine all have over 170,000 but yet they have no play. Only one had play. So I would say there is nothing wrong with the other. Now have a I had a Gmeter in the car to see if corners the same as the car new, nope lol. I run different tires and springs so i don think it every will. I see what your getting at but if your compression on your rings is well within spec there would really be no reason to replace them unless you just want to. Now if you mean warn piston rings like they are blowing smoke and runs like crap then yes you would replace them. Just as if you checked out your bushing play and one was cracked or busted then i would replace it. Sorry for dragging it out, but when I say if it ant broke I mean if its not within manufactures specs, then don't replace/fix it.

 

with 90k my ball joints were shot. it depends on the car... have it inspected at a shop you know you can trust. and follow their suggestion. every car is different... i recently changed everything... cause i was in there... might as well do it all...

struts
springs
control arms (all front)
sway bushings

its 100 percent better. more positive feel in the steering wheel and smoother ride...

 

You say you have sloppy steering? I had the same thing AFTER I put on aftermarket wheels. Those ones you have, do you have hub centric rings on them?
That would definately give you a sloppy/wiggle in the steering wheel. Been there done that. Thanks to VNTPerformance for pointing this out for me. My sloppy steering is now gone. I have 169k and my bushings,wheel bearings and balljoints are good. I'm on the Koni/Eibach combo.