continued from last post. It sure on how to add more than 10 pics per post

Found this and it meant the motor was going in for a full rebuild

 

I took the motor down to get the machine work and assembly at Engine Supply in Santa Ana Ca. Mason and the boys got me right.

I went with the RS1600 kit from real street with a couple different options. I went with the 10:1 CP pistons, and Carrillo HD rods with the 3/8” Carr rod bolts, billet main caps, ARP +626 head and main bolts. 0.25” DLC coated piston pins

 

Engine supply assembled the rotating assembly for me but I need to assemble the rest of the engine.

Needed to install the oil pump and lower oil pans.

The Carrillo HD rods I went with are on the heavier end of rods available but they are supposedly very strong. So I need all the oil pressure i can make to be supplying the bearings in the engine. I chose to eliminate the oil cooler and went PHRs oil filter union. It’s supposed to give around 10psi more pressure at high rpm. Also installed PHR upgraded oil pump.

Next came installing the cylinder head. I almost forgot that the machine shop found that my previous non vvti head that I brought in was warped beyond repair. So I went on the search for a new cylinder head. Back in 2019 jdm vvti engines were like $1800 shipped while a new head was close to the same cost. So I just ordered a whole jdm vvti engines from eBay. Good ole pre covid price days.

 

For the head. I went with Ferrea valves, super tech dual valve springs, ti retainers, shimless buckets, 625+ head studs. Stage 3+ BC cams. No porting.

I got my valve covers powder coated so I needed to clean up under the oil baffles in the covers.
That was a mission in its self.

Two of those Allen bolts needed to be grinded down because the cams would hit.

 

Can use button heads for more clearance

 

The I started buttoning the rest of the engine up. Was going to keep the BW turbo, put a ported cast manifold on, I went with sleeper designs mechanical fuel pump set up. A lot of what you see here was changed out over the last few years… pretty much changed everything… turbo, manifold, intake, went back to electric fuel pump.

 

Started focusing on the car at this point. I wanted to shave and paint the engine bay. I also wanted to relocate the fused/relay box to the passenger foot well.

I was going to bail on relocating the fused box so I didn’t weld up the holes but in the end I decided to just go thru with it.

Next I relocated the fused box to the passenger foot well and redid the body harness up front.

A couple cuts here and a little extending there and it was done. Dakota the St Bernard supervised ensuring no mistakes were made.

Picked up a harbor freight pelican case and it worked out pretty good. I can close and lock it up. Passengers could kick it all they want without hurting it. Still going to make a cover for it and the Motec M150

don’t mind the couple missing connectors. I’ll get to those

 

Time to put the motor and trans in. Went with Grannas’s T56 Mag F, clutchmaster fx100, Tilton TOB.

I needed to install these offset dowels in the block to help line the input shaft of the trans up better which help not wear bearings prematurely.

Dialed

Engine is in.

 

Next it was time to build the diff. I went the Grannas 8.8 set up

There are a few variants of the 8.8” diff case most are cast aluminum and some like this one came off the Thunderbird Super coupe were cast iron and supposedly stronger.

Went with the Ford racing gear set 4.11 ratio and true trac LSD.

Local legend Bill Thomas assembled the diff for me.

 

Diff goes in subframe.

out with the old.

DSS pro axles

subframe back in.

 

Now this is a build! Wow.

 

amazing amount of work!

Looking forward to more.

-Rich

 

Some time went by and not much was getting done.

Originally I wanted to install a dual pass radiator. To get rid of that coolant pipe that run across the front of the engine. I was going to go with the IS300 fan set up but it ended up not fitting and I needed to make my own fan shroud.

I didn’t like the way the shroud was coming out (cant find pic) so I attempted to just run the mechanical clutch fan and use the stock shroud. Didn’t like the way was coming out either. In the end I pull the dual pass out completely and put back in the misimoto rad and got a prospeed electric fan set up. I’ll post pics later on that.

might be able to see peaking out on the driverside a new intake manifold. My buddy was selling his Custom Plenum Solutions carbon intake manifold.

Trying to run drive by wire I reached out to Outside Garage and they were able to make me a DBW adapter for an 82mm DBW TB

Came out pretty clean.

 

It was time to part with the original turbo kit that came with the car. The BW sxe362 was not going to get us anywhere near the 1000hp mark that all Supras are expected to make.

in with the new. PHR S45 manifold with the billet collector. With Egt, and Exhaust manifold pressure sensor bungs added.

For the turbo I went with Precisions next gen 8085. They say the lag is comparable to a gen 2 7685 but makes the power of a gen 2 8385. We’ll see.

Got an ETS 6” core intercooler. Interesting story is they wouldn’t send to a California address due to some EPA bs. So I had to send it out to my dads house in Az and drive and pick it up.

 

Rear mounted catch can.

I didn’t want the look of a catch can in the engine bay and if they are not recirculated into intake or baffled properly you can get smells of oil in the cabin. I chose to put the catch can in the back of the car behind the rear bumper.
I could be wrong but my logic to this is The reason you see the oil mist/steam coming out of catch cans during a pull is that the vapor is hot and it has not had a chance to cool down enough to condense when it hits the walls of the catch can. The cooler you can make the catch can the more vapor you’ll catch. Putting it the rear allows the vapor to cool and condense somewhere in the lines or catch can. Reducing the smell. But probably the best benefit from moving it to the rear is that if you have a huge engine failure while going fast and oil pukes into the catch can you don’t want all that oil in the engine bay to make it way under the tire or cause fire.

I ran two -10an lines from the valve covers (with stock baffles) under the car on the drivers side where it meets a -16 Tee and a -16an line goes to the rear of the car up behind the rear bumper. There’s Tee has a fitting in it that if the oil doesn’t make it to the catch cans but instead condenses in the lines it can be drained pretty easily.


Found these nice full bore -10an fittings. But if I were to do it again I probably would have gone with those radium push in fittings as they get closer to valve covers.

 

Oh baby this is what I like to see! Great job man! Let me know if you want a job!!!

 

Hell yeah thanks Pat!!! Means a lot. Don’t tempt me!!! Would be a lot of fun!

 

Started fabricating the intercooler piping. I went with titanium. Up until this point I have never welded titanium, so I wanted to start welding the piping in a more hidden area and thought I should have it kinda down by the time I make to to the areas of the piping that will be visible, like the turbo outlet and right before the TB. I went with 3.5” IC piping and started taping together a bunch of Vibrant pie cuts eventually building exactly what I needed without welding anything yet at this point. Then I broke the pieces down to smaller sections that could be welded easier. I chose to snake the intake pipe around in the stockish way vs. cutting a fat hole in the car. Telling myself that one day this car if going to go back to 100% stock and will be on a Barrett Jackson auction. Dreamin

so this is the first time I’ve ever welded titanium, and the first welds were coming out with a bunch of oxidation. Found I needed to crank up the Argon shielding gas to reduce down this oxidation. First few pics are kinda bad but it gets better by the time I get done.

This is the one that wraps up around the radiator and eventually up to the TB. You cant see this one when installed.

The ones in front of the intercooler came out pretty mids too but luckily you don’t see them with the front bumper on.

then I start understanding that I needed all the argon I can throw at it. Everything is fully backpurged.

 

Here’s the piping completed

 

I have NEVER seen a Build thread go this hard in only 24 hours! Nicely done, and thanks for sharing it all!
Loving all the pics and explanations of what you're doing and why - folks read threads like this and get knowledge and inspiration for their own builds. Seeing awesome cars in a ton of pieces, getting worked out, getting past things that didn't work out, and working through a builder's thought process REALLY helps the guys that are trying to decide what they want to do and how to do it. It also helps keep all of us motivated through all the tough times when things don't work out! There is a finish line!

So thank you, sincerely, for stopping by and sharing all of this! Really curious to see how that 8085 does!

 

Can use button heads for more clearance

I didn’t even think/know about the button heads when I did mine would have saved me from ruining two of the bolts. Dam. Great idea

Now this is a build! Wow.

Thanks!!

amazing amount of work!

Looking forward to more.

-Rich

thank you!!!

I have NEVER seen a Build thread go this hard in only 24 hours! Nicely done, and thanks for sharing it all!
Loving all the pics and explanations of what you're doing and why - folks read threads like this and get knowledge and inspiration for their own builds. Seeing awesome cars in a ton of pieces, getting worked out, getting past things that didn't work out, and working through a builder's thought process REALLY helps the guys that are trying to decide what they want to do and how to do it. It also helps keep all of us motivated through all the tough times when things don't work out! There is a finish line!

So thank you, sincerely, for stopping by and sharing all of this! Really curious to see how that 8085 does!

I’ve wanted to make this thread for years now but kept flaking because I didn’t think the progress was fast enough. Now that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel I wanted to go ahead and get it out there. Thanks. I know what you mean. It’s hard to keep the motivation and I know that back 10x years ago when I got on this forum the build threads were inspiring. Now with everything on social media it’s harder to keep everything in one place. These forums are very convenient and offer a ton knowledge to people starting out.

 

Full 5 inch exhaust…

I went with a full 5” exhaust for two reasons.
1. A fellow Supra owner that I follow on IG (think he has the current Supra 1/2mile MPH record) is running the same turbo and says he cant boost over 30ish lbs of boost running a 5” dP to a 4” exhaust.

2. I have a theory that less back pressure you have after the turbo turbine the faster it can spool and some people have claimed the 8085 can be a little more laggy than what they were expecting.

I took that logic and ran with it and made a 5” exhaust. Currently it has three “mufflers” installed on it but being that they are “race” mufflers and do not offer a lot of packing I don’t know how much they will reduce the sound. Now if this thing turns out to be obnoxiously loud i am considering putting a 5” diesel truck muffler up under there to quiet it down

I went with 5” oval pipe for the mid pipe section. It goes down to 3.5” tall and like 5.75 thick.

Like with the IC piping I just tape everything together real tight before committing to tacking it all up. Started with the Down pipe. Kinda hard to snake 5” pipe around two waste gates but we made it happen.

Next one the mid pipe and axle back sections.

Happy with that. Let’s tack everything together…

 

Welded.

not my best weld but it should work.

The dam thing shrunk like 0.5” in length from the welding. May need to cut it and add a 1” section to lengthen its right now I’m concerned it may melt the bumper.

 

Amazing build! When you think you've seen it all with supra builds, a build thread like this comes along! I've never seen the catch can mounted at the back of the car like, great idea! Keep the pictures coming!

 

Geez, posts like these make me believe SF can have a flourishing future again. As Dave stated, keep the updates coming brother!

all catch cans should be positioned there..

 

Back out comes the motor.

When I got my head done, the machine shop mentioned that they did not need to clearance the head around the cam lobe area for the upgraded cams (BCstage 3+) because there was no binding that was occurring. I was cool with it and went on with my life. About a year back I was watching Headgames Motorworks YouTube channel and they had a video talking about high lift cams and how the VVTI head casting requiring clearancing. He claimed that even if the cam does not bind up, there may still be a problem with oil starvation. The came lobe could be getting so close the head casting that it actually wipes the cam lobe clean of oil and when it hits the bucket it hits in a dry-ish condition and over time that can murk ur buckets.

So in usual fashion I can’t leave anything alone I pulled the valve cover and start turning the motor and found a few cam lobes that were coming pretty close to the casting.

Yeah not too comfortable with that…

So….

Sent the head off to Headgames for cam clearancing, recheck the valve job, and added in a pocket port. During this time between machine shops my turbo and power goals changed a lot so Dave got me right with the GSC 5066 conical valve spring kit good for 1500hp. About a month later I had the cylinder head back.

Around the same time I was trying to figure out what to do about the stock VVTI cam gear. I tried painting it gold to match the BC cam gear. didn’t like it, not the right gold, stripped the paint off.

Was thinking about getting the Drift motion VVtI cam gear cover which looks sick. But decided against it.

I found the pic online with a head that had an HKS vvti cover. Looked pretty clean.

Went with that.

Head back on.

motor back in.